WET FELTING
WORKSHOP
Additional Notes from Workshop, and Recommended Supplies
Thank you for joining me on my Wet Felting Workshop. I hope you enjoyed it, I certainly did! As promised I have provided a little more information for you but if you have any questions do not hesitate to get in touch at hello@gaelhillyard.com, and don’t forget to subscribe at the bottom of the page for updates and news.
Materials used in Wet Felting
Felt made in a wet felting process, mostly uses 100 wool as its base. In craft applications this is mainly merino wool, and in the UK it is often imported from South America*. However, any untreated animal hair can be used, ranging from wool from rare breed sheeps, or even that from your local croft, to any trimmings or moultings from your pets, such as dogs, rabbits, or even (I am told) horses and cats. You can also use balls of wool, and if you have any old sweaters you can unvravel these and use the yarn, provided it is 100% wool, and not treated for use in a washing machine.
As well as wool you can also include other natural fibres such strands of cotton, or silk which can be either raw or taken from fabrics such as saris; or man made filaments such as ‘angelina’ fibres which is a synthetic product used to add sparkle. Whichever you use, these will not felt and will need to be secured to the surface with a very fine layer of wool laid over the top. I am currently exploring the use of pieces taken from peacock sword feathers in some of my work - I will post a picture if I have any success with this!
* I am assured that the wool I purchase is from flocks that are treated well and not subjected to practices that cause harm or discomfort. This also applies to feathers.
The felting process
Similar to human hair, wool is covered in scales. The process of felting uses these scales to encourage each strand to latch onto each other by forcing the scales to open and then close. Whether creating felt for fabric (for garments, decorations or accessories) or structural material (such as footwear, hats and sculpture) the fibres are laid out in the same way, with the quantity and depth of wool used to define the fluidity or rigidity of the end product. Fibres are laid in one direction to the required size plus 30-40% in each dimension to allow for shrinkage, and then subsequent perpendicular layers are placed over the top until a suitable depth is reached. This is then wetted (not too much) and a textured open surface is placed over the surface so that the process of agitation can be started. Agitation continues until the wool begins to felt and it when pulled strands hold together. After this has been achieved on both sides it is then time to move to the ‘fulling’ process, which effectively shocks the fibres into permanently locking its scales onto the neighbouring strands causing the felt to shrink and become sturdy. This is achieved by a combination of:
agitation (rubbing the surface more vigorously usually through rolling it)
temperature (soaking in alternate hot and cold water)
force (hitting the fabric against a hard surface such as a table top), and
chemistry (changing the pH value of the environment).
Top ten tips for getting good results
Try and create a consistent layer of roving, and pick up the wool after it has been laid out (be gentle, although it will hold together surprisingly well); check there are no obvious patches where light can be seen in some place more than others
Use warm water (not hot), and don’t use too much soap. Soap is used to change the pH of the wool environment, however excess soap suds and detergent can become trapped between individual strands and slow the felting process considerably.
Allow the water to soak into the fibres for a couple of minutes before starting to agitate it. By doing this you will allow any excess water released by the wool to pool which can be then poured off into a bowl.
After laying the textured material over the damp wool, press it gently into the surface so it makes good contact; rub a bar of soap over the surface to lubricate it and make agitation easier.
Use a plastic bag filled with waste material instead of your hands. This is much gentler than using your fingers - essential in the first part of the felting process
Be consistent in your agitation, start at the top and work downwards, then turn the wool 90 degrees and do the same again
If pulling up the surface to check that the fibres are starting to felt, choose a corner or an area that will not be so visible
After fulling, achieve a fine surface by using your fingers, or a smooth object to ‘polish’ the felt and any raw edges. You can also coax the wool into a structure by doing this.
When the felting is complete and you have achieved the result you want, place the fabric in a bowl of luke warm water with a drop of vinegar added. This is will break down any remaining soap which can then be easily rinsed away.
Wool that has been properly felted has a ‘memory’ and will retain its shape even after re-wetting. After rinsing arrange the item to the form you want it to be and leave it to dry thoroughly. Check it occasionally to ensure the shape is still as you want it (you may need to use items to support it while it dries, such as inflated balloons, bowls, or even blocks of wood).